Christian Siriano told quite a story through his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, which took place at Eyebeam Studios on Saturday. The show opened with suits and tailored separates, then moved into blousy, flowing skirts and palazzo pants with a smattering of bodycon and A-line dresses. Then came highly textured cocktail attire with petals galore and round, sculpted shoulders. The highly textured thing has been done to death, but Siriano added a new twist by clustering the texture into stripes and blocks. His silhouettes seemed mostly '70s-inspired, save for a couple '60s-style dresses.
Finally, we moved into the gown segment, which is where Siriano excels, creating bold, colorful, mostly strapless ballgowns that moved like a dream. We'll definitely see these again come awards season.
All in all, the only thing that held the collection together was a color theme of red-orange, lime green, salmon and nude. No prints carried throughout and one strapless pink sackdress looked a bit random among the rest. But I'm not complaining. Cohesion is important to a collection only when it's being shown on the runway, because it tells a story and everything goes together. But it doesn't really matter in stores, where the average shopper is only going to buy one or two pieces and doesn't necessarily want them to look related. So I have a hard time faulting a designer for refusing to stick to a hard and fast theme.